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Thursday, October 18, 2012
Fix Fluorescent Light Fixture
Frequently Asked Questions
QUESTION:
Need to fix fluorescent kitchen lights- fixtures not lighting up completely. Any ideas?
I bought new bulbs for my 2 kitchen lights thinking my bulbs were burned out but they're still not working right. I have a round fluorescent light fixture as well as a fixture that contains 6 very long lights. I turn the switch on & it turns on but very very faintly like it's not getting enough power or something. Is this something I can fix myself or should I call an electrician? I don't have too much experience with this stuff but do have a little bit of general knowledge. Any ideas anyone?
ANSWER:
You probably have an old fixture with a magnetic ballast driving T12 bulbs. T12 means 12/8ths of an inch, in other words 1 1/2 inches in diameter. Virtually all such fixtures, standard before about 1988, are driven by a magnetic ballast that lasts at least 25 years (often much longer) but is fairly inefficient and makes an annoying flicker. Bulbs driven by magnetic ballasts strobe at 60 times a second, the same speed as AC power. Your ballast, or the starter which is really a replaceable part of the ballast, is dying, and should be replaced.
Switch to a fixture with T8 bulbs (one inch in diameter) driven by an electronic ballast, which will strobe at about 20,000 times a second. That will eliminate your flicker and give you better lighting and better efficiency (since a 4 foot T8 uses between 25 and 34 watts, rather than 40, per bulb, to put out the same amount of light.)
A new shop light type fixture currently costs .50 at Home Depot, so it doesn't make sense to just replace the ballast alone and fiddle with the wiring. Since every T8 fixture is electronic, and strobes at that fast rate, all you have to do is look for a T8 fixture. If your current fixture is hard wired, you might have to have someone a little bit handy in to put in a terminal box to plug the new fixture in, or buy a hard wired fixture for about , but it's worth it. I assume you have one of those recessed box part-of-the-ceiling type kitchen arrangements, with a 'lens' (see through plastic sheeting) between you and the lights, so no one will ever see what kind of fixture you put up there. You don't need to get anything pretty.
Once you've done that, I'd recommend getting full spectrum bulbs for your new long fixture - try lightforhealth.com.
Unfortunately, as far as I know, you can't replace the round fixture with a similar electronic ballast type fixture. No one makes an electronic-ballast version of a Circline fixture. You might just have to live with that until it completely dies, or replace it with a compact fluorescent (which fits a regular light socket), wiring up a regular closet-type ceramic socket, but that would also require a little rewiring. No help for that. Or if you're willing to do the drywalling and painting required, you could put in a recessed can fixture, with a compact fluorescent in there.
I'm hardly an electrician, but this isn't much of a challenge if you're willing to get into the wiring a little. You'll get instructions in any new fixture on how to wire it into your existing setup.
QUESTION:
Can a person fix a "throw-away" (non-ballast/dual transformer) fluorescent light fixture?
My 48" garage fixture doesn't work on side. It does not have a ballast/silver little canisters. It is run off of 2 small transformers with a little breadboard containing a ceramic capacitor and some resistors. When I took the thing apart, I wasn't sure if the transformer on one side ran bulb 1 or bulb 2. Or if one transformer was in charge of both bulb sockets on either end. To me the wiring looks as if I would not be able to take 2 "one-bulb working" fixtures and make a "2 bulber" without having to throw both the onesies away and spending $ for a new one.
Ive done the bulb swaps and even took out my multimeter to check voltage on each of the four contact pairs. I found that only one of the four had about 22-24v while the other 3 had something around 1-2v. Funny thing is one would think to expect both the contact ends for a single bulb to be reading the ~22v...and yet the bulb lights up. This is what is puzzling me and made me question the wiring of the fixture. As for the fixing of said fixture(s), I found 3 others in my garage which were the predecessors to the current one. They all have the same problem, making me think that I can frankenstein all four into 2 working fixtures. I will next test out the capacitors since the "trannys" don't seem burnt out. BTW the caps look like a totinos pizza roll. I would assume resistors are not faulty or burnt out.
ANSWER:
have you tried new lamps or swapping over the lamps to see if the fault is in the ballast, i think you call that the transformer, sometimes the capacitor goes faulty and one side stops working, all fluros have ballasts to boost the voltage and a starter that gives it he initial stricking current, except for the newer electronic fluro fittings that dont need a starter and strike instantly. if your fitting has two"transformers" it has one for each tube,so if its really old and has two large "transformers"in it one of them is probably had it causing one side not to work. if you have a spare transformer that still works in the other fitting you should be able to take the working one out and replace it for the faulty one ,. sounds like a lot of hassle you should treat yourself to a new fitting that will last for years and be done with it.
QUESTION:
How do I fix Fluorescent light?
I recently installed 4(2 bulb) fluorescent lights -about a month ago. They worked fine til recently one bulb in one light went out. Replaced bulb same thing??? New fixtures so no "starter". If ballast was bad wouldn't it affect both bulbs?
ANSWER:
Its not the Ballast first of all. Sometimes bulbs will go bad fast depending on shipping mishandling where inner filaments are damaged some or manufacturers. Just replace both bulbs instead of just 1. See how long it will last. If they burn out again then you have a short in the end connectors. Dont bother changing the ballasts.I recommend a return for a totally new fixture before the manufacturer warranty runs out.
QUESTION:
I need some help with my Fluorescent light fixture.?
I have a Fluorescent light fixture that is in a cage that I fixed up for my tegu. The fixture was for a 33" tube. In order to make it useful for me I modified it so that it is 36" long so it could fix the standard size bulb. Then I found out that the starter used for the original tube wouldn't work because it was a F-2 and for a 36" tube I need a F-4. But when I got the F-4 no light come on at all. (with the f-2 and the tube in the light just flickers but doesn't come on) Is this because the ballast is of a different size or something, and if so can I just change that? Any help would be appreciated I really want to get this light working tegus need the uvb light. Thanks
ANSWER:
The answer is probably the lamp type, T8 instant start lamps are not compatible with preheat starters/ballasts. Using Sylvania numbers a F30T8/CW and a FO25T8/741 are going to look the same, same number of pins, same length, but the cathode at the end of the lamp is different, you need the F30T8 for preheat fixture (lamps labeled preheat or rapid start), but good luck, these are 1950's technology. Changing to T12 rapid start will increase the lamp wattage beyond the ballast capability.
QUESTION:
Fluorescent light flickers while off. How do I fix it?
I just replaced a regular candescent fixture in my garage with a double T8 4 foot long flurescent light fixture. One of the bulbs flickers constantly for hours while the switch is off. I actually replaced the switch.. same problem. Replaced the bulb... same problem. Both the light and switch are grounded. There is another new exact fluorescent fixture on the circuit which works fine. Thanks!!!
Thanks so far for the great advice. It sounds like I've got a wire switched somewhere. So my new fluorescent fixtures each have a black, red, and green wire. Black gets hot, correct? If the black and red were switched, would it matter? Some fixtures I install only have 2 blacks (and the green). Thanks!!
ANSWER:
Somewhere in the electrical system, there's a wire crossed, a neutral hooked to a hot side, or vise versa, that's causing a feedback situation for that one circuit. It wouldn't show up in an incandescent bulb socket, but it will with a florescent in it's place.
QUESTION:
Fluorescent Light fixture *Hum* grounding Issue?
I installed three new 48" fluorescent light fixtures in my shop. My shop is a metal style carport garage. I wired them in using normal household 14-awg wire in the standard white/black/bare solid copper wire. The black and white went to the ballast and the bare copper wire went to the green ground wire that just grounds to the body of the fixture. All three lights are on one string of wire connected to a light switch and then going to the breaker box with their own 15-amp breaker.
The light fixtures are mounted directly to the metal framing of the garage with a 3/8" thick by 1" wide universal automotive weatherstripping in 48" strips so the metal fixture case don't come into contact to the metal framing of the garage.
The lights have been hooked up for a few days now but I just got bulbs today. When I turn the lights on the fixtures buzz/hum quite loud. When I read the manual that came with the fixtures it says that a buzz/hum could be caused from a bad ground.
If it is a bad ground I don't see what I did wrong. I used all new 14awg wire, and installed them on a their own 15-amp breaker. Ive checked all the connections at the breaker box and light fixtures and light switch they are all connected.
So my questions are:
Could this be just because the lights are new? Or it's 40*f here, Could cold weather cause them to hum? If it is a grounding issue, Should I take the bare copper (green) ground and connect it to the metal framing of the garage as well as the fixture case?
OR what other things can I do to fix the ground (if that is the issue)?
BTW: The "hum" is not the normal fluorescent light hum, This is quite loud, Ive never herd one this loud before.
Thanks for your time!
***responce to answers***
It IS grounded all the way to the box. Im sure the box is grounded to the earth because it just passed inspection in july when I bought the house. I forgot to mention, the breaker box is the house's breaker box. I have two power leads from the main house breaker box to the shop. One for plugs and one for lights. Both are wired with outdoor grade 12 awg wire and then connected in the shop to the indoor 14awg wire.
They are cheap lowe's light fixtures. Im 99% sure they are indoor lights. I never figured tempture would effect the lights. I figured indoor = Dry outdoor = wet. Never thought about the tempature.
Thanks for the help.
ANSWER:
Do you have a sub panel in this shop I think that is what I am reading here. You say two hot wires then you have to have a neutral and if you do not have a fourth wire then you do not have a ground in this shop. Or do you have two 12/2 w/ grounds ran to the shop and if this is the case then you do have two circuits and two neutral and two grounds. If you do have 2 12/ 2 wires ran then you do have a ground and you said all connections are tight. So now if you do have proper grounding then you can go to the next step.
I would venture to say to undo one light at a time and turn them on after you have taken one off the circuit, it could be one has a bad ballast or even loose on the mounting device. If you can eliminate the one that is bad or loose you have done what you asked.
Look on the ballast it should tell you a F or C rating this is how cold the ballast will work to. Some ballast do not work below freezing and some ar rated at -20 degrees. They do make a light ballast that goes outside called high output ballast but you would be better off not to spend this kind of money in a shed for this purpose. I have purchased cheap lights that are rated for -20 F and they work fine for the most part.
Maybe you just do not have the lights tight or the ballast are loose as I said in the light and this could be your problem as well.
Good Luck :)
QUESTION:
changed out old fluorescent light fixture to new ones?
changed out old fluorescent light fixture to new ones old ones had two ballast and the new one has one ballast hooked the new lights the same way as the old ones and the lights wont turn on it's 2 sets of lights on a 2 way switch. what can i do to fix it?
the old lights were t12 the new ones are t8, so there is is t8 lights in the new fixture, the lights do work to trouble shoot I hooked up the lights white to white & black to black, when done i turn the power on lights come on and switch does not affect the lights, when hooked up the other way i put black to black and white to red, turn power on lights are off and switch does not affect the lights.
Do i need to hook up black to red and white to white?
ANSWER:
Did you buy new lamps?
If you bought a new fixture, it takes T8 (or T5) lamps. Chances are good that your old fixture took T12 lamps. These do not work well (or not at all) with new electronic ballasts.
If I'm wrong, update the question
QUESTION:
How can we determine the numbers of fluorescent light fixtiures needed for a fixed area and fixed height?
The numbers of fluorescent light fixtures that should be installed in a room to give suitable amount of light according to the standards specifications is required.
ANSWER:
Depends on the number and type of fluorescent lamps in each fixture, the mounting height of the fixtures, the reflectance of the surfaces in the room, the dimensions of the room, and the coefficient of utilization of the fixtures, as well as the required footcandles, and at what height above the floor those footcandles should be measured.
But you'll come out ABOUT 1 fixture for each 56 sq ft (each fixture assumed to have 4 ea 4-ft 40-watt fluorescent lamps.
here's a lighting layout estimator
http://www.gelighting.com/na/business_lighting/education_resources/tools_software/toolkit/layout.htm
QUESTION:
My fluorescent light fixture flickers. Whats wrong?
My fluorescent double-bulb fixture flickers. I have bought new bulbs, and the problem persists. Is this something I can fix myself (I am handy enough to be dangerous)? Its easy to access and the wiring is new, panel fuse is fine and nothing else in the circuit flickers.
It is in a heated basement. Not sure what T8 or 12s are.
The bulb is GE "watt-miser" F40CW-RS-WM Cool White E 34 Watt - and it's 4' long. Embarrassed to admit the kid at HomeDepot showed me what matched the one I brought in. Most help I've ever had in that store ;)
Not sure about starters or age either.
ANSWER:
If you changes the tubes and they still flicker then the ballast is the next thing to replace. You should be able to open the fixture pretty easily (usually the panel above the tubes is removable). Turn off the circuit at the fuse or breaker panel then take a good look at the way the ballast is wired, or better yet, take a digital photo or two of the wiring so you can duplicate it later. The ballast is usually mounted with just 1 or 2 screws. Remove it and take it with you to a hardware or electrical store so you can get a direct replacement. Refer to your photo or sketch to install the new unit, it's really quite a simple process. Good luck.
QUESTION:
new fluorescent fixture seen to reduce brightness of light for long periods?
Ok ...I installed a new 4 ft Simkar fluorescent ceiling that uses 3 8 4 ft bulbs.I have bought a good brand which is
skybright daylight output lumens/light color.The effect is very
whitish and crisp but there is a slight problem.It seem to dim
at certain long periods of time during just after sunset or
at night.I know it is not my vision because these are not heap.It is bright and makes what is white look clean white
in the daytime and when evening starts to dawn in around
5 or 6'ish it seem to slightly dull off some and I am wondering
where all the brightness went? The old fixture used 2 40 watt fluorescent.I need to mention that I think
the wire coming from the ceiling was short in reaching one
side of lighting hook-up wire and I think it could be touching
the top frame plus I had very little electrical tape..I was going
to fix this been about 2 months.
Could the hot and neutral be crossed or is it wiring touching
frame or fixture itself? please help paid 0
thanx
It uses 3 T8 bulbs.Other people have commented it look a little dim.when I
remove the cover full brightness,funny...
thanx
ANSWER:
Relax, nothing is crossed. If your wires were crossed the breaker would have tripped as soon as you flipped the switch.
Actually it sounds like an optical illusion, Flourescent bulbs put out their rated lumens, that's it. They do'nt sense light & change their brightness, it's an illusion, flourescent bulbs are known to play tricks on the eyes.
Hope this helped, good luck!!
QUESTION:
Light Fixture Fell from Ceiling?
My fluorescent kitchen light fixture fell from the ceiling. It's a 6 year old house, and the same light fixture has held it up without problems. One night one of the screws holding the plastic casing got loose, and left a small (1-2 inch radius) cracked hole in the ceiling. Then the other side fell too. Above the ceiling is the attic. Should I just fix the holes and re-hang the fixture, or is it an indication of a bigger problem?
ANSWER:
Do not try to put it back using the same holes. Fix the old ones and then if you can mount the light in a different place or at least make new holes. If you can try to screw it to a joist in the celling. If not you can use a toggle bolt. Those are the best things to use in dry wall for hanging things like that.
QUESTION:
I need help with a light fixture from someone with electrical expertise/genius!!?
I have a light fixture that is less than 6 months old (closet/kitchen/hallway) that takes a 9-inch round fluorescent bulb and it quit working. I bought a new bulb and it still doesn't work. If you plug the bulb into the fixture, there is a slight glow where the plug is and if you touch the bulb the glow will grow further. This is a new fixture and I have tried 3 new bulbs (which are supposed to last for 5 years the box claims). Does anyone know what could be wrong with this fixture or if there is a way to fix it? I would rather not have to go out and buy yet another new fixture if I don't have to. Is this a possible ballast problem or something else and could it be fixable?
ANSWER:
It could be any one of these things OP have mentioned.
If this light is only 6 months old call, write or email the mfg. If you're like me you probably don't have the receipt. Just explain the problem and I'll bet you have a new fixture sent to you within a week or so. I've done this before and it works. It beats spending your own money.
QUESTION:
Fluorescent ballast question?
I have a two bulb T12 fluorescent light fixture and for some reason only one bulb lights up. I changed bulbs to rule out a burnt bulb but it did not fix the problem. Only one side lights up while the other does not. When I turn it on it does not make any noise that I can hear and turns on without a problem. It' just one side does not turn on. Does that mean I have to replace the ballast? Or could it be just be a wiring issue?
ANSWER:
Replace the Starter when: The fluorescent lamp lights only at the ends.
Replace the Fluorescent Lamp when: the lamp blinks continuously.
Replace the Ballast when: The light is completely out and you are sure the lamp is good.
I would say it is the ballast. Be sure to take your old one into the store with you for a match up. You would be surprised how many different ones there are. All look the same but are very different.
QUESTION:
How do you stop the annoying buzz from a fluorescent fixture?
I have some under-the-cupboard fluorescent fixtures in my kitchen. One fixture is buzzing and it's very annoying. I switched the bulb and it seems to be worse. Should I replace the ballast (is it that little metal cylinder you can unscrew) or what's the fix to this? I can't afford to buy updated lighting, so that's not an answer. Thank you.
ANSWER:
use an electronic ballast and bulbs to match the ballast. what kind of fluorescent is it? how long are the bulbs? try amazon for the ballast and bulbs. the home centers usually only have them in standard sizes.
QUESTION:
I have Fluorescent lights in two rooms of my house. All but one fixture is not working properly.?
When I lift the switch to turn them on, they usually only turn on dimly. If I turn them off and on about 7 times in a row they will come on normally -but not always. At other times I can slap the side of the fixture and then it will work properly.
How can I fix it?
ANSWER:
Sounds like the ballasts or starters are bad. Make sure the bulbs are installed correctly, but I am thinking the ballasts or starters are bad,
QUESTION:
Track lighting problems!! Help!!?
Here is the situation..
I removed a fluorescent light fixture from my ceiling. The white wire and the black wire had been extended by a cap to make the fixture work. The fixture was not grounded and was only attached to the two wires.
I am now installing track lighting.
I look in the ceiling box and I see:
2 white wires that were capped in with the white extention wire
1 black wire that was extended
2 bluish colored wires that are capped to eachother
I removed the white and the black extention so I now have the following in the box:
2 white wires capped to eachother.
2 bluish wires capped to eachother.
1 black wire
My track lighting has a white,black and green wire.
I attached the white wire to the two white wires that are capped together.
I attached the black wire to the single black wire.
I attached my ground green wire to the two capped bluish wires.
I assemble the rest of the lighting and turn back on the power and...
I break my circuit breaker.
I checked my connections and all points of the lighting. Nothing seems to be wrong but my wiring.
My questions...
Am I wired correctly?
Anyone have a reason as to why I would have spliced neutral and ground wires?
Am I fair to assume that the bluish wires are my ground?
Why do I keep blowing my breaker?
Do I need to ground my track lighting?
What consequences do I have if I do not ground?
and finally...
How do i fix it?!?!?
Heh.. I know it is a lot of questions to ask...
I would appreciate any help.
:)
ANSWER:
The blue wires are more than likely the feed for the light passing through the box.
Just leave the two blue wires tied together and your problem should be fixed.
QUESTION:
drywall screw came out
Hi, I have standard size fluorescent light fixture hanging from two brackets installed in drywall, one on each end. There is one screw in the top and one in the bottom of each bracket. I used drywall screws , and they have worked for a long time, but when I was moving the fixture around to change a bulb and put a little extra weight on it, the entire upper screw on one bracket pulled out of the wall, and now there's a large hole there. The fixture didn't fall, the other screws are fine, and it pushed back in, so I was wondering if there was a certain type of glue I could use to hold it i there and fix it quickly, any advice appreciated
ANSWER:
I would put a molly in there and then put the screw back in to make it more secure.
QUESTION:
Fluorescent bulbs keep burning out.?
I have 9 - 4 foot, two tube shoplightes in my woodworking shop. I have a problem of tubes burning out in a few weeks / months in three of them. It is always the same fixtures and always the same side/bulb in that fixture. Others have been in place for years with out having to change the bulbs. I have also come across this issue in some homes that I service. Obviously this is an issue with the light fixture but what is the problem and can I fix it without replacing the fixture? I have tried a range of bulb brands and price range with the same results. All of the fixtures are on the same elect circut controled by the same switch.
ANSWER:
its most likely the ballast if its a cheaper flourescent light fixture for about the same money and work you can replace the whole fixture
QUESTION:
What strip light hood should I use for my 30 gallon tank? 24 inch or 30 inch?
Right now, I'm in the process of fixing up a 30 gallon tank that I acquired from a friend that found the fish hobby more frustrating than fun. Right now I'm replacing the old, shabby strip light with a brand new compact fluorescent fixture. However, the problem is I'm not sure what size to get. The "slot" for the strip light measures around 28", however, Drs. Foster & Smith only sell compact fluorescent fixtures that are 24" or 30". I'm assuming a 30" would be too big and not fit into the slot correctly, if at all, so that's probably out of the question. The 24" would fit into the slot, but it would also leave a lot of room on the sides. Should I just get the 24" and not worry about the extra leg room? Or should I do something else?
Thanks for your help in advance. :)
ANSWER:
Ask your local fish store what size light is required for your specific hood. Make sure you tell them the actual brand of the hood and tank.
QUESTION:
How long is an unreasonable length of time to wait for an apartment maintenance repair?
Eight days ago, a faulty ballast on the light fixture in my bathroom (which appears to be so old it's probably from the '80s) caused one of my fluorescent lights to burn and melt, and since then I've had no functioning permanent light fixture in my windowless bathroom. (Tonight, my overhead bedroom light also went out, probably a ballast again.) Is more than a week a reasonable time to wait for a repair like this? It's hindering my ability to do things such as cleaning, which requires a decent light source. I recently waited over two months to have a dripping kitchen faucet replaced, and informed my property manager over 4 months ago of water leaking through the top of my window that has never been looked at or repaired. I think all of these are excessive maintenance wait times, but my property manager continually tells me that the maintenance person is overloaded with work, as though I should sympathize and be patient. When I called about the bathroom light fixture to ask if it was a fire hazard, she said that the maintenance person lived too far out of town to come fix it quickly.
Further, the old tiles in my bathroom floor are crumbling, and some of the exit-sign lights are out in the building.
In your opinion, would any of this warrant a call or complaint to the local inspector? I've been leery to stir up animosity with my property manager because she's treated me relatively well and gives me good perks in the building, such as letting my two cats stay at no extra charge.
ANSWER:
I am a maintanance man and we always try to handle request within a week any longer is not ok. a dangerous problem like yours should be done asap. sounds like your landlord is short handed, not your problem she has a duty as a property owner she should hire more help. ( maybe remind her in a nice way)
QUESTION:
what else do I need for my gbr planted aquarium?
hello,
I am new to the world of planted aquariums. I went out and bought my tanks set up and I have been running it for a few days now included in my set up is a 20g long tank with a AquaClear power filter for 10-30 gal, marineland stealth heater 75 watt for up to 25g, then here is my problem I bought a deluxe aqueon full hood 30 inch fluorescent light with a 17 watt bulb. I think the max it can handle is 25 watt bulb. the insides contain black rocks parts of 2 ceramic pots I have broke and sanded off the edges, and today I added a huge piece of drift wood, by huge I mean it takes 1/4 of my tank. also i forgot about the out door timer i just got from lowes.
my goal is to spend as less money as I can in getting my tank ready for plants, a pair of german blue rams, and a few fish that my girlfriend has yet to pick out.
far as plants go I am looking for low to mid lighting and a 4 clover plant to spread over my drift wood.
okay I know my light bulb can not support the plant life I intend to use so I have started to look for a quick fix and I have came to a stand still. Will I have to buy a whole new hood or can I just put a new light fixture on top of the hood.I have been looking in to tops like
http://www.marineandreef.com/Aqualig...p/res58021.htm
or
http://www.aquarium-supply.biz/Produ...tCode=RES53015
also what watts will I need, will the lights make my tank heat up and how many hrs a day should I have my tank on, and are there any other things I need to get my tank up and going, I need to get testers because I know putting the drift wood in my tank lowered the ph.
o and soon I will have a few ghost shrimp for my gbr to eat later on.
ANSWER:
QUESTION:
Can one light bulb in a series of eight recessed lights cause a dimmer switch to stop working?
This is a previous question asked by jdagger however i had a further part to this riddle. my story is a little different.
We built my room when we moved into our new house, the basement was unfinished and decided to build there. we installed a drop ceiling with recessed incandescent lighting fixtures. after the first bulb burnt out two years ago the dimmer stopped functioning, i replaced the bulb with the exact same bulb from the same pack of bulbs as the rest still nothing. since then i have switched from flood lamps to the compact fluorescent. could the dimmer switch have been fried and is there anything i could do to fix the switch besides buying a new one.
ANSWER:
You should replace the dimmer with a 1,000 watt dimmer and use incandescent light bulbs. Fluorescents will not dim, they are either on or off, unless you buy a very special dimmer and fluorescent (but we won't get into that). A 1,000 watt dimmer will handle any incandescent light bulb that the can lights can safely handle. The dimmer should be easy to install but will cost a little more than the original one.
QUESTION:
Fluroscent tube light bulbs will not work, new ones too?
At my house in our laundry room, we have these long tube lights, 2 of them, that will not turn on at all, but sometimes they will barely give off a faint light, so we have been using a flash light to see to do the laundry. My dad hasn't gotten around to fixing it yet, and I was going to try and work on it because it's annoying not being able to see. I think it has to do with the fixture because we put new bulbs in their awhile back, not too long ago, and as soon as we put them in, they would not light when the switch was flipped. I forgot what my dad thought the issue was, but any ideas on how to repair this? Also, in my bed room, I am having the same sort of problem, but I have had the long light bulbs in there for over a few months, but when they are on, they shine great, but, I have to sometimes keep flipping my light switch on and off several times in order for them to get the juice to turn on. But, I think the lights in my bed room might be just burning out, but once I finally get them on, they work great, so I don't know? Again, the problem with the laundry room fluorescent tube lights has to do with the unit that they hook onto.
ANSWER:
Sounds like your ballast has gone bad.. Home depot or Lowe's or any electrical store sells them. You'll need to know what size of ballast you have to match it up. You're looking at to .
QUESTION:
Quit claim advice please?
This is apt to be long winded so please bear with me. About 5 years ago my parents and I came to the agreement that if I paid off their land contract, they would sell me their house for . The balance was about 00 on a k house. This would ensure they would have a place to live despite unscrupulous family members attempts to sell it off from under them. Which my parents knew could and would happen if given the chance. I didn't want the house and told them I would donate it to the fire department once they either passed away, or weren't able to live there due to health reasons. But until then, it was still their house. I was living in Florida at the time, so I had a friend of mine who worked at a title company handle everything for me, and send me what I needed to sign. Everything was done legally. I paid off the land contract they had, paid for all the title work, transfer fees, and whatever else I had to pay. Since then, my dad has developed Alzheimer's disease which has gotten severe, and my mom passed away a little over 2 years ago. At that time, I told my brother and sister I owned the house since 2003 or 2004 (I can't remember exactly) and that I would sell the house and split it 3 ways, because mom would have liked that, ON THE CONDITION that they both commit time and money to help me fix it to be sold. This was a verbal agreement only. This was 2007. At some point last year, I'm not sure when, my sister bought a crummy trailer house next to hers in the same trailer park. Late last year she moved my dad and older brother out of "dads" house and into the trailer. She didn't contact me and let me know even. I found out when I went to check on them because no one was answering the phone. I found the house a disaster area. Everything had been ransacked, and everything of value (which wasn't much) was gone. She, or they, even took all of the fluorescent light bulbs out of the fixtures. That's when and how I found out she moved them out. I received a notice in the mail to appear in court for a guardianship hearing pertaining to my father. My sister was after his pension and social security. In court and under oath, she stated the house was in terrible condition, was not fit to live in, etc... Seems she said it should be condemned, but I can't recall to be honest. So I took this as "No" they were not going to help me fix it to sell it. After the hearing I told me girlfriend I was going to donate it to the fire department for training. she talked me out of it and said she could sell it to help pay he sons college tuition. He's a very good kid, so I agreed, and sold it to her for the same sum of . Last week we located a real estate agent and listed the property. Shortly after that, my sister drove by, seen the sign, and called the agent wanting to know "Who is selling my dads house?!!", the agent filled her in the the owners name (my girlfriend), and now she is calling me threatening litigation, saying "I have the original land contract showing every payment made...", "I should do what dads attorney says and take it to prosecution...". I guess what I need to know is, how can I make her go away? I work, have my own house, a mortgage, and other responsibilities. All I want the rest of the family to do is leave me alone. Simple. Any and all help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you for taking the time to read this pitiful story.
ANSWER:
QUESTION:
Electricians needed, regarding commercial wire-in light control for flood lights.?
My "daytime/nighttime" floods stay on all day.
I have four exterior flood lights that are controlled by a "wire-in light control" that is supposed to turn them on when it gets dark. Two floods are the commercial "1-Lamp Metal Halide Floodlight" and two are called "16 Watt Triple Tube Fluorescent" (but uses a 65w bulb). These four lights go to the panel and I think were originally on a timer, until the previous owner put them on an electric eye, through a wire (black, white, green) that comes out of the meter room into direct light.
MY PROBLEM IS, they stay on all day. I replaced the eye, and the same things happen. They go on for a minute, then go off for a minute, then stay on permanently. I tried all the wire configurations and got the same results, and I know enough light is hitting the eye since the sun was blasting on it the whole time.
One person said that since the "eye" is rated to 2000w, that I may be burning it out with the two halides, since they have the sulfur bulbs that may push the wattage too high?
If thats the case then I would just replace those two monsters, and match them with the halogens that I'm using, which would save money in many area's. But I don't want to spend the time doing that just to get the same problem.
So, am I burning out my "light control" with too many floods, and how should I fix it?
NOTE: There is definitely power going to the "light control", these four floods are the only fixtures on this line, and this switch is the only one on the line.
Thanks for all the help.
Rob
Update: I'll double check, but I'm 99% sure the old timer is disconnected, and I know that the "light control" cannot be adjusted at all. It's just an "eye" with 3 wires (black, white, red)
ANSWER:
Rob, don't make this any more complicated than you need to. The photocell is just an automatic switch, so basically the old timer doesn't make one bit of difference. If it were still in the circuit, it would shut the lights OFF at some point, and that isn't your problem. Your problem is that they are ON all the time, so the photocell isn't doing it's job for some reason. Identify the hot wire and interrupt that with the photocell just like you would with any switch and it *should* solve your problem. If you were "burning it out" ( the light control) it would fail to the off position. I *think* you simply have it wired to the photocell incorrectly.
Al
QUESTION:
I rented an apartment in May of this year. The bathroom is not very big, but it will do, however, the?
fixture in the bathroom leaves something to be desired. It is a block painted off white with one of those fluorescent bar bulbs attached to it. It's very ugly and not very pretty to look at. Does anybody have any ideas how I could fix it to make it look fancier? It's maybe about 16 inches long. I thought that maybe I'd buy a box to cover it up and then totally buy a new wall light at lowe's or home depot that just plugs into the outlet.
ANSWER:
Considering that it's a small bathroom, you may want to leave that outlet free for other uses. Why not look into a fluorescent light cover instead? There are a lot of style to choose from and they diffuse the light so the room won't look so stark. Your local home-improvement center should have them. Here's a website to give you ideas:
http://www.fluorescentgallery.com/?OVRAW=fluorescent%20light%20covers&OVKEY=fluorescent%20light%20cover&OVMTC=standard&OVADID=5236160511&OVKWID=24563548011
QUESTION:
fixing the timer on a Zilla product?
Eh, I know this probably isn't the best place, but I was hoping other peeps with reptiles can point me in the right direction. The timer on our Zilla "Halogen/Fluorescent Combo Fixture" (basically a hood with multiple lights) broke. I took apart the mechanism, but all the gears scared me so I haven't tried fixing it. Was hoping another snake/herp owner has had this problem and has suggestions? Or maybe someone can point me to a "fix-it" sheet? I want to sell it soon, and it'll be worth a lot more if the timer actually works.
Product is:
http://www.zilla-rules.com/products/combo-fixtures.htm
Thanks in advance!
The timer still switches the lights on and off, but it doesn't turn on its own anymore. You have to manually turn it or flip he switches. Quite annoying, really...
Called them already. Basically told me to send it in and they'd fix it (for the cost of a new one) :(
ANSWER:
call the company that made the lamp.
QUESTION:
how to make a disguised 120V electrical connection between a moving [hinged] and fixed panels?
for a bath room mirror assembly, consisting of a middle fixed pane and 2 side hinged moving panes with built in light fixtures I am searching for a durable disguised connection between the panes and a swith that activates the lights hwen the panes are opened and deactivates the lights when the panes are closed and cover the middle pane with mirror. the panes will be made in box style, about 1-1/2 " , to hold the fluorescent tubs T8 or T4
ANSWER:
You might want to look into air pressure switches. The kind you hind in hot tubs or high end garbage disposals. They have a PVC tube with a bladder at one end and a switch at the other. The switch turns on or off when the bladed is compressed. This could also work as a door stop.
QUESTION:
Whites Tree Frog UVB question?!?
I just recently bought a Whites Tree Frog, and have been having problems keeping the tank up to temp. But it seems that from adding the blue light to the tank added some temp and they came out of there hiding spot and were sticking to the corners of the glass and were a nice green. They seemed alright but I want the temp to be where there most comfortable and from my research 83-86 degrees is preferable for these guys. So what I did was I bought a 3 in one fixture. It holds a 2 incandescents, and one fluorescent. So i bought the following lights a Zoo-med basking spot lamp(75w), zoo med 60 watt night light (red), and a exo-terra repti-glo 5.0 UVB 15 watt. Today is going to be the first day with both the UVB and the heat lamp on at the same time. Also since I put the red one on i hit 80 degrees, so it looks like the temp problem has been fixed. But what's with all this information saying they dont need a UVB? I mean most of the info I come across is saying they dont need it, but I came across another site stating they do great with UVB's? How come there is so many different opinions on this subject? I can't see how having one is nothing be beneficial to the animal, but maybe I'm wrong. Someone please give me some RELIABLE information, I don't care if they don't require it, but if its good for them why wouldn't you? Just seems like a short cut. Anyways thanks for the help!!
ANSWER:
OK UVB is not required but is beneficial and bring brings out brighter colours so altho they arent strickly needed whites do better if they have them. also heat/basking lamps need either a guard or to be outside the screen mesh at the top of the cage as frogs can burn themselves also keep an eye on humidity levels as heat/basking lamps can dry out the tops of vivariums
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